Total Distance: 25.1 km
Total Time: 6h
Total Euro: 31/person
Route: Triacastela to Sarria
The Camino metaphors/analogies abound today: If left to our own devices, E and I will inevitably take the long way to get to something. The long way is bound to be prettier. And, if you don’t vigilantly apply insect repellant, you will get more bites (count ’em – six new ones all in a cluster on my right forearm. One is already blistered). That last one isn’t really a metaphor, but you get what I mean.
There were two routes out of Triacastela today and E and I had hoped to take the shorter (by 7 km) one. I’m going to blame sleepiness for our inattention and somehow we ended up on the longer trail. We didn’t realize our mistake until we were in Samos, but at that point we were quite glad to have made it. Samos was a lovely, picturesque town where we sat down to have what E dubbed the best coffee of the trip. We also got to walk on softer ground along the river, rather than on hard pavement by the highway, which was kinder on the feet as well as the eyes. We also had some good ole San Franciscan summer weather for most of the day, so we were quite comfortable during our hike.
We had some good talks and some good silences on our way into Sarria, and when we arrived we opted to find a private room. I have no idea the name of the hostel we’re staying in (I’m not even sure it says on the sign out front), but it’s on the main road in the center of town and it has a nice bathroom and beds. We also made use of the washer and dryer – my post-hike dress got it’s first good cleaning in almost five weeks. The proprietress is a lovely woman and she seems to have taken a shine to E.
Despite the fact that Sarria is a large town where many pilgrims stay (we are now just 115 km from Santiago and in order to receive a Compostela, pilgrims must walk at least the last 100 km. To this end, we will need to get two stamps on our credentials each day starting tomorrow to prove that we’re walking), the menus de peregrinos failed to entice us (it’s starting to become all variations on a theme and if I see one more side of soggy potatoes on this trip, I’m going to lose my shit). E asked me what I thought, to which I replied, “F it, let’s get a burger.” E never needs to be talked into a burger and less than 10 euro later, we each enjoyed a very respectable “classic” hamburger. As other pilgrims walked by, both of us felt a little self-conscious and E jokingly remarked, “Yeah, that’s right. The Americans are eating hamburgers and fries. What of it?”
We spent the afternoon in our usual fashion and for dinner, E threw together a fabulous salad. Our hostel didn’t offer a stamp for our credentials, so we waited around for mass to get out so that we could get our credentials stamped at the church.