The Way, Day 35


[Galician Sunrise]

Total Distance:  25.5 km
Total Time: 6.75h
Total Euro:  32/person
Route: La Faba to Triacastela

Pilgrims are cray.  Alarms started going off at 4:30 this morning!  They’re getting up earlier and earlier!  E and I have resigned ourselves to this fact and have decided that if we can’t get back to sleep, we may as well make the most of it and get an early start.  Today it was so freaking dark when we left the albergue that we needed headlamps so that we wouldn’t stumble to our deaths in the woods.  The plus side of all this was that we reached O Cebreiro (fairly high up the mountain) in time for the sunrise.

The rest of the way was up and down.  At the highest point on the mountain we ran into our San Diegan friends, which was a nice surprise because we thought they were long gone ahead of us by now.  We walked the rest of the way to Triacastela together, catching each other up on the last two days. 

I forget which town it was in, but the four of us got hustled by some abuela “giving out” crepes.  She got to A and E first, so L and I could hardly refuse and just about the time we were thanking her and moving on, she asked us for a “donativo.”  E and A fished around for some spare change, to which the woman protested that it was too little for two people each and that each crepe was a euro.  At this point L and I were pretty annoyed, but E and A must be better people than we are, because A pulled out an extra euro and E pulled out a 5 euro note and got change =P.  Note to self:  Never accept “free” food from people on the street. 

We got into Triacastela at half past noon and decided to stay at an albergue at the other side if town (instead of the municipal albergue) and were rewarded with a super hot shower and a clean bed (the albergue had an unfinished quality to it – the showers and laundry are clean, but not particularly nice, if that makes sense).  They have a kitchen, so we tried to buy some groceries, but completely struck out at both stores in town, so we ate lunch (and dinner) at one of the restaurants near us instead. 

E and I are doing well, but we are both starting to feel tired.  Both our feet were slammed today and we keep waiting for that burst of energy that we hope will carry us into Santiago, but it has yet to be forthcoming. 

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