Total Distance: 23.5 km
Total Time: 6.25h
Total Euro: 27/person
Route: Calzadilla to Sahagun
Before I launch into my daily Camino ailment, I want to emphasize that I’m having fun. No, seriously, I swear. Despite the inability to function sans ibuprofen, the near food poisoning incident, the hot, shadeless terrain, the blister that recently formed between my toes (due to the gel pads that I was wearing on my feet to ease some of the impact on my bunions), and now the insect bite/sting that has my left forearm inflamed from elbow to wrist (I use the word inflamed in the medical sense – calor, rubor, tumor, dolor – don’t worry parentals, the Epipen is on standby and I’m going to take a Benadryl before bed), I really am enjoying myself: I have a tan for the first time since leaving Japan, my skin is clear and glowing and E and I are getting along great. I also get to eat breakfast for lunch (for some reason eggs and sausage/ham/bacon isn’t served until 1pm), and chocolate for breakfast (E will do anything to get me out the door in a timely fashion). Good wines are only 3 Euro and great wines are only 10. I get to line dry my laundry and I’m traveling with a personal chef who is the envy of all other pilgrims attempting to cook food for themselves. Oh, and then there’s morcilla, which is this amazing (blood?) sausage and rice (as far as I can tell) thing seasoned with spices.
Neither of us slept well last night, so we made sure to grab a coffee before we left the albergue. We haven’t been to a town with a grocery store in a while, so we were low on snacks and the caffeine on an empty stomach made both of us a little chatty. We reflected on how nice it’s been to not be on everyone else’s schedule lately. We don’t feel the need to rush so much, nor are we worried about getting a bed in an albergue. We can take nice long breaks (we spent at least an hour sitting at a bar in some small town where we had stopped for a morcilla snack) and don’t feel pressured to cover a certain number of kilometers in a day. It’s nice to go at our own pace, even if it is slower than the masses [insert daily Camino metaphor here].
At some point during our day, we came across a small labyrinth. At first I thought it might be silly to do a walking meditation in the middle of what is essentially a walking meditation, but I entered the labyrinth anyway and was glad that I did. In the same way that practicing on my own mat feels safe and like home, walking the labyrinth have me a sense of comfort and security.
We arrived in Sahagun around midday and made our way to the municipal albergue. The albergue seems to be in a converted monastery and has pretty basic facilities, although it does have a decent kitchen. E went to buy groceries while I did the laundry and then we had lunch, followed by a pastry at a nearby cafe while we waited for the pharmacy to open so we could buy more sunscreen (obscenely expensive and only comes in small bottles) and nail clippers (E refuses to use my file). We spent the rest of the afternoon reading and then E made us a nice dinner. A little more quiet time and then of to bed soon.